1TV — Neputevie zametki
20260920 061000 UTC
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[00:00:12] These are not travel notes with Dmitry
[00:00:14] Krylov.
[00:00:17] Hello, Travelers. I continue my story about a unique
[00:00:21] expedition along the route Kamchatka, Commander
[00:00:24] Islands, Chukotka. In these remote
[00:00:27] hard-to-reach places, a small
[00:00:30] number of lucky people managed to visit, and
[00:00:34] today, we are among them. Isn't that a miracle? We spent
[00:00:38] 10 days in the cold waters of the Pacific Ocean, by the way,
[00:00:41] almost quiet during our journey. On
[00:00:45] some days, it was even friendly, which is rare in these
[00:00:48] latitudes. On one such day, some decided to
[00:00:52] bask in the sun and swim in the pool, which at first
[00:00:55] seemed like a mockery on this trip, but who
[00:00:59] would decide to refresh themselves in these harsh lands? However,
[00:01:02] brave ones were found. All 10 days, our cruisers were
[00:01:06] practically without connection to the outside world. No, I said
[00:01:10] something stupid, because for these days, the outside world turned out to be all
[00:01:13] these beauties, northern,
[00:01:16] harsh, wild, but no less
[00:01:19] beautiful for it. And that familiar outside world, with
[00:01:22] solving endless problems, with the routine of every day, turned out to be
[00:01:26] distant, almost unreal. So maybe it's for such
[00:01:29] a feeling that one should go to such places, huh?
[00:01:58] A little about the ship that the cruise is on. This is
[00:02:01] an expeditionary mega-yacht, a comfortable
[00:02:04] modern icebreaker-type liner, capable of making expeditions in the most
[00:02:07] unfavorable conditions. It
[00:02:11] can handle routes in northern latitudes and voyages to the South
[00:02:15] Pole, coping with ice up to one and a half
[00:02:18] meters thick. Yes, voyages in such latitudes are often associated with
[00:02:21] storms, and therefore pitching, and what about those who suffer from seasickness?
[00:02:25] How to deal with it? Does that mean such cruises are not for
[00:02:28] them? No, there is...
[00:02:37] The noise makes it difficult to understand how everything is arranged, but
[00:02:40] it is impressive. Andrey told us about the most modern
[00:02:43] stabilization system. It is located underwater. I won't
[00:02:47] burden you with technical terms that Andrey sprinkles around,
[00:02:50] but imagine that at the bottom, in the center of the ship,
[00:02:53] a bird with spread wings is attached,
[00:02:56] which constantly makes counter-movements. These underwater
[00:02:59] wings monitor the balance
[00:03:02] every second, reacting to the liner's movement and
[00:03:05] stabilizing the hull's position. Here's what our
[00:03:08] captain said about our liner's stabilization system:
[00:03:11] "Stabilizers that calm the pitching, and I
[00:03:15] can tell you that they do their job very
[00:03:18] well. There is a very big difference if the stabilizers
[00:03:22] are working and if they are not working." In general, all
[00:03:26] the technical life of the liner is hidden from the passengers' eyes, and the captain's bridge is
[00:03:30] not a place for excursions, but it's curious, isn't it? Here our captain
[00:03:33] dispelled the myth about him, as always, standing at the helm,
[00:03:36] looking into the sea distance. No, the ship is given
[00:03:40] a course, which it follows on autopilot. On the captain's bridge,
[00:03:44] an officer and a watch seaman are usually on duty. The captain
[00:03:47] is on the bridge only during some special maneuvers,
[00:03:50] when entering and leaving port, when lowering zodiacs into the water,
[00:03:54] in case of unfavorable weather conditions, waves, wind,
[00:03:58] fog, difficult ice situation.
[00:04:30] Casus. Our Commander Islands, it turns out, were completely
[00:04:33] accidentally preserved for Russia. When in 1867,
[00:04:37] when selling Alaska, Alexander II circled the
[00:04:40] Aleutian Ridge and Alaska, the Commander Islands miraculously did not fall
[00:04:44] under this distribution. Those territories were sold for seven and a little over
[00:04:48] million dollars in gold. By the way,
[00:04:51] 30 years later, gold was found in Alaska. And the
[00:04:55] famous American gold rush began, but
[00:04:58] alas, this no longer applies to Russia.
[00:05:05] One day we headed to Copper Island. Yes, strong winds and waves
[00:05:09] when approaching it did not spare the zodiac passengers. Well,
[00:05:12] yes, not exactly Hawaii. Copper is the second largest island in
[00:05:16] the archipelago. Unlike the partially inhabited Bering Island,
[00:05:20] this land is absolutely uninhabited, and the house
[00:05:23] found on the slope turned out to be a lodge for scientists to stay overnight, who come
[00:05:26] here to study the local untouched fauna and flora.
[00:05:30] Our ranger Ivan explained that according to unwritten rules, there should always
[00:05:34] be a supply of firewood, water, and food. He lit the stove,
[00:05:38] cooked himself pasta with canned meat, and life seemed not so
[00:05:41] bad. And the name. Gardona Kislya is explained by deposits of sea
[00:05:44] cabbage, which thickly covers the entire shore,
[00:05:48] lying there, fermenting. We tried it, it's quite edible. In
[00:05:52] our supermarkets, it's sold in jars. High
[00:05:55] cliffs, deep gorges, steep precipices, the coastline
[00:05:59] has almost no gentle sections. The ocean here crashes into
[00:06:02] the rock, creating grottoes, arches, and powerful surf
[00:06:06] zones. Copper Island got its name back in the 15th
[00:06:10] century after the discovery of native copper here, but
[00:06:13] due to the remoteness and inaccessibility of the island, the idea
[00:06:17] of mining it turned out to be unfeasible. What copper?
[00:06:20] Try to get here. In the early 19th century, sea
[00:06:23] animal hunters came to Copper. For hunting, 17 families of
[00:06:26] Aleuts were brought
[00:06:29] here. Hunters transported goods by dogs. Here,
[00:06:32] dug trails are still preserved. They are called dog
[00:06:35] trails.
[00:06:40] We rounded Bering Island and headed to Commander
[00:06:43] Bay. In this very bay, then still
[00:06:46] nameless, on November 28,
[00:06:49] 1741, the great storm,
[00:06:52] as it was later called, washed ashore the packet boat
[00:06:55] St. Peter, the flagship of the Second Kamchatka
[00:06:58] Expedition under the command of Vitus Bering.
[00:07:02] Let me remind you, the goal of the expedition was to reach Alaska, that is, the shores
[00:07:06] of North America. On the way, many on the ship began to suffer from
[00:07:09] scurvy, including Bering, who was almost completely
[00:07:13] exhausted.
[00:07:16] Realizing the severity of what was happening and the rapidly deteriorating
[00:07:19] weather situation, Bering decided: "We will
[00:07:22] dock at any shore for wintering." Seeing
[00:07:26] a large bay in the fog, he decided that it was the coast of Kamchatka. When
[00:07:30] entering the bay, the ship was thrown onto a reef by a storm. The ship's
[00:07:33] bottom was pierced, but fortunately, if one can even
[00:07:37] speak of fortune here, the packet boat was carried over
[00:07:40] a sandy
[00:07:42] spit to the shore by powerful waves. Thus, about 50
[00:07:46] sailors ended up on shore, almost half of whom were sick with scurvy. Under this
[00:07:50] slope, the sailors dug shallow pit dwellings,
[00:07:53] stretching canvas instead of roofs. In these cold graves, as Steller called
[00:07:57] them, people spent more than 9 months.
[00:08:00] The sick, completely weakened Vitus Bering was carried from the ship
[00:08:04] to a tiny dugout. In it, he died on December 8,
[00:08:08] 1741, exactly one month
[00:08:11] after the shipwreck. A wooden cross stands at the site of his
[00:08:15] initial burial.
[00:08:18] In 1992, the remains of the sailors were reburied
[00:08:21] higher up the slope. So the Commander and his companions finally
[00:08:25] found their place of final
[00:08:27] rest. And it was the right decision. Not to move
[00:08:31] the body of the great commander to the mainland, where he would solemnly rest,
[00:08:34] encased in granite, but to leave the great navigator here, on
[00:08:38] the harsh expanses, swept by the free
[00:08:41] wind. The crew of the St. Peter managed to winter,
[00:08:45] surviving in incredibly harsh conditions for 9
[00:08:48] months. 9 months of deprivation, cold,
[00:08:52] hunger, and disease, without any real prospects
[00:08:55] of getting out. But despite everything, doomed to death,
[00:08:58] the sailors continued to fight for life. Yes, it looks like
[00:09:02] a miracle, but luckily the crew managed not only to survive, but to build
[00:09:06] a new ship from the wreckage of the old one, on which, with the start
[00:09:09] of navigation, they set off on the return journey.
[00:09:13] Today, Commander Bay is a place of memory and historical heritage of
[00:09:17] Russia. During the expedition's voyage from Alaska to the Commander
[00:09:20] Archipelago, here on Bering Island, 31
[00:09:23] people died, and 19 of them during
[00:09:27] this nine-month wintering. The Commander's name
[00:09:30] is etched four times on the map of our country. This is Bering
[00:09:34] Island, which became the last refuge of the important
[00:09:36] navigator. In the north of the Pacific Ocean, there is
[00:09:40] the Bering Sea. Asia from America is separated by the Bering
[00:09:44] Strait. This entire group of islands was named the
[00:09:47] Commander Islands in honor of Vitus Bering.
[00:09:51] We are in one of the most unique regions of our
[00:09:54] country, we are in the Amur region, this floating monster
[00:09:57] as tall as a five-story house is called a dredge, and its task is to mine
[00:10:01] gold. How much gold can it mine? Up to one and a half tons
[00:10:05] of dredges mine from one
[00:10:11] ago I came to this place. The concept was to give people
[00:10:20] is the reindeer so important in the lives of the
[00:10:23] Evenks? Well, how... Well, it's both food and
[00:10:26] transport. Are we still the number one space
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[00:12:37] Buclin
[00:12:40] Oh, what a surprise! Leonid Isakovich, already
[00:12:43] home? Yes, new projects are already starting. Well, it's clear.
[00:12:47] This is the moment when the future becomes
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[00:12:55] It's already 6 AM.
[00:12:59] I like this boy.
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[00:13:05] This is anticipation and
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[00:13:13] Leonid Isakovich, did you see?
[00:13:16] It's already here. And now, there will be more
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[00:15:03] Let me remind you, the Commander Islands and the adjacent
[00:15:06] thirty-kilometer water area are all part of the Commander
[00:15:09] National Park. This part of the Pacific Ocean is considered one of
[00:15:13] the favorite water areas for whales, orcas,
[00:15:16] belugas. The waters here are so rich in food that all this
[00:15:19] large-sized public comes here to feast
[00:15:23] and build up fat.
[00:15:30] Along the shores, there are rookeries of unafraid Northern fur seals,
[00:15:33] seals, sea otters, and Steller sea lions. Indigenous...
[00:15:36] Стелера, коренных...
[00:16:07] therefore its dense fur coat is the only protection against
[00:16:11] the cold. In former times, the sea otter's fur was valued even higher
[00:16:14] than ermine, and so our furry friend was mercilessly
[00:16:18] hunted. On the Commander Islands, scientists have
[00:16:20] registered 10 species of pinnipeds. We observed
[00:16:24] the sea lions and seals
[00:16:27] clinging to the rocks. The roaring and growling are terrifying. This is sea lions
[00:16:30] settling scores. They are quarrelsome creatures, and also
[00:16:34] very timid. Our boats, which were at a considerable
[00:16:38] distance from the rocks, still forced them to jump into the water.
[00:16:41] Clumsy and awkward on land, they become pure
[00:16:45] grace in the water. The seals behave more restrained and
[00:16:48] dignified. Well done,
[00:16:50] seals.
[00:16:53] By the way, about birds. The coastal cliffs are populated by them with the same
[00:16:56] density as cheap apartment buildings somewhere in a
[00:16:59] Chinese metropolis. Well, perhaps with less noise and
[00:17:02] Chinese people. The clamor of this bird metropolis also does not
[00:17:06] subside, sometimes even overpowering the roar of the waves.
[00:17:09] On the cliffs, there are thousands of murres, gulls, kittiwakes, tufted puffins,
[00:17:12] and auks. Oh, the feathered creatures occupy every ledge, every
[00:17:16] crevice. And only the proud cormorants
[00:17:18] settle separately and seem not to participate in this
[00:17:22] noisy market of thousands. On narrow ledges directly
[00:17:25] above the ocean waves, the ceaseless feathered life
[00:17:29] unfolds, never quieting for a minute, never sleeping
[00:17:32] at night. Loud courtships and fights with enemies occur. Gray-winged
[00:17:36] gulls are the main hooligans on the cliffs; they
[00:17:39] eagerly await another tufted puffin to snatch
[00:17:43] its prey, and of course, the eternal disputes over the best spot.
[00:17:46] Madam, you weren't sitting here. By the way, tufted puffins, unlike gulls,
[00:17:50] do not build nests. With their powerful and beautiful beaks, the males
[00:17:54] dig a burrow in the soft peat. Due to their bright, exotic
[00:17:57] appearance, which doesn't quite match these harsh
[00:18:00] lands, tufted puffins are also called sea parrots or
[00:18:03] clowns. Aren't they beautiful? True?
[00:18:07] And how wise nature is! For Murres, she came up with a special egg
[00:18:11] shape, resembling a pear. If the female
[00:18:14] accidentally pushes it, an egg of this shape has a better
[00:18:18] chance of not falling off the cliff. Murre birds are generally unusual
[00:18:22] in many ways. They settle in 20 pairs per square meter
[00:18:25] of steep cliffs. The female lays a single
[00:18:28] egg, and 3 weeks after the chick is born,
[00:18:32] still weak, fluffy, unable to fly, the parents
[00:18:36] literally entice it to jump off the cliff
[00:18:39] down. Yes, not all of them safely plop into
[00:18:43] the saving water, some break on the cliff,
[00:18:46] but the parents go to such a desperate act not because they are
[00:18:49] monsters, it's just that it's much safer for the chicks in the water,
[00:18:53] predators won't get to them, and there's plenty of food around. In
[00:18:57] the water, the dad takes care of it, the chick gains strength,
[00:19:01] learns to fly. Murres are clumsy on land, they only go there
[00:19:04] for nesting, their element is water, they
[00:19:08] dive excellently to a depth of 100 m. Well, almost
[00:19:12] like penguins. And another amazing fact: outside
[00:19:15] the breeding season, Murres and parents do not stay together,
[00:19:19] they often migrate for huge distances alone, but
[00:19:23] they do form pairs for life, that is, for
[00:19:26] 20-30 years, and are faithful not only
[00:19:29] to their partner, but also to a specific spot on the cliff where
[00:19:32] they meet every spring. Yes, that's
[00:19:35] such swan-like, or rather... Murre-like fidelity.
[00:19:39] Comrades, let's take an example from the Murres, if it's not
[00:19:41] too late.
[00:19:44] You know, I'm very glad that I had the opportunity to shoot such landscapes more than once in
[00:19:47] different parts of the planet. And I really want you to
[00:19:51] become real witnesses and see
[00:19:54] it with your own eyes. But if some of you, for now, and "for now" is
[00:19:58] the defining word, don't have such an opportunity, then
[00:20:01] we'll meet next time on screen and continue our acquaintance with
[00:20:05] the Far East, but in our ex... until
[00:20:08] next time, happy for now, your
[00:20:11] faithful as a murre DK, and don't
[00:20:14] forget, all episodes of the program "Travel Notes" can be found on
[00:20:18] the Channel One website.