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00:00:18The Record News Series today is an exclusive Record Plus session, a documentary called "Coffee with the Aroma of
00:00:21Minas" shows the secrets behind the production and export of Minas Gerais,
00:00:25which are considered the largest in the world.
00:00:28Remember that this and other exclusive content are available on
00:00:32Record Plus for you to watch wherever and whenever you want.
00:00:36The drink that comes from the roasting of this
00:00:52grain is successful in the four corners of the
00:00:56planet. Coffee consumption worldwide,
00:01:07in 2020-2021,
00:01:09according to the International Coffee Organization, was
00:01:13167 million and
00:01:16258 thousand bags, a growth of
00:01:20about 2% compared to the period of
00:01:232019/2020.
00:01:26Data from Abic, the Brazilian Association of the Coffee Industry, shows
00:01:30the importance of coffee also on the tables of
00:01:33Brazilians.
00:01:42Even during the economic crisis caused by the pandemic,
00:01:46there was an increase of 1.71%
00:01:49in consumption in 2021 compared to
00:01:52Brazilian consumes
00:01:55almost 5 kg of roasted coffee per year.
00:01:58Currently, more than 40 countries are dedicated to
00:02:02coffee cultivation, but have you ever stopped to
00:02:06think about where coffee came from?
00:02:07Coffee originated in the region
00:02:15called Kaffa, in southwestern Ethiopia, on the African
00:02:19continent. Legend has it that in the 9th
00:02:22century, a shepherd noticed that his goats became
00:02:25agitated around a tree laden with
00:02:29red berries. Suspicious, he also
00:02:32decided to try them and reportedly became, shall we say,
00:02:36enthusiastic. If Africa was the cradle,
00:02:39Saudi Arabia was the country responsible for the
00:02:43popularization of coffee throughout the world. After all, it was
00:02:46the Arabs' idea to roast the beans and make
00:02:49a drink from them. There, the cultivation had great economic
00:02:53importance and was surrounded by secrets, since the
00:02:57Arabs believed that coffee
00:03:00had miraculous properties.
00:03:04Over the years, coffee conquered Europe. In the
00:03:0716th and 17th centuries, Holland and France already planted
00:03:11coffee in their colonies and hid the seeds as if
00:03:14they were precious stones. In the era
00:03:18of the great navigations, coffee arrived in
00:03:21Brazil. They sent a Brazilian
00:03:25mission to Guyana, a guard, a sergeant
00:03:29named Palheto. He went there with the mission of bringing these
00:03:32grains, and he was able to bring these coffee
00:03:36beans, planting them initially in
00:03:38Pará, but it didn't have a very favorable climate, and
00:03:42these seedlings were
00:03:45distributed to other regions. In the Rio de
00:03:49Janeiro region, it did very well, and there began the first
00:03:52commercial plantings of coffee in Brazil. In the
00:03:56soil of Minas Gerais, coffee found the ideal conditions
00:04:00to yield good fruits. Coffee has an altitude
00:04:04characteristic, right? It doesn't do very well below
00:04:08700 meters. So, it fluctuates a lot between
00:04:11750 and 1400 meters. And it's this altitude that we
00:04:15have here in the Southeast, especially in Minas Gerais,
00:04:18which is the largest coffee producer in the world, right? The state of
00:04:22Minas. So, at this altitude, in our mountains,
00:04:25it was able to find a very favorable
00:04:28climate for its development and,
00:04:31mainly, for the quality of the beverage. And since Minas
00:04:35is very diverse, we have a unique
00:04:39characteristic in each region, which reflects in the
00:04:42beverage. That's why our coffee is so exotic.
00:04:44The type of coffee that arrived in the country was Arabica, which, according to
00:04:48specialists, makes a better drink with a more
00:04:52pleasant flavor. The other more common variety was
00:04:55introduced in Brazil some time later, it's
00:04:58Conilon, also known as Robusta. This bean is
00:05:01produced in warmer regions like Rondônia, Bahia, and
00:05:05Espírito Santo.
00:05:07Minas is the largest producer and
00:05:10exporter of coffee in the
00:05:13world, with harvests that exceed 30
00:05:16million bags per year, meaning almost
00:05:19half of the Arabica coffee produced in Brazil comes
00:05:22from here. The Central-West and South regions, where we
00:05:26are, together, have the largest planted area.
00:05:29There are about 650,000 hectares in
00:05:33154 municipalities. Last
00:05:36year, this national gold generated
00:05:394,400,000
00:05:42million in local economy,
00:05:46numbers as high as the reach of exported
00:05:49coffee to more than 80 countries.
00:06:06What is a special
00:06:07coffee?
00:06:11A special coffee is just like that,
00:06:15clear and naturally sweetened. It doesn't need
00:06:19sugar or any type of sweetener,
00:06:21did you know? Yes, I know it, and today I use
00:06:25this coffee. For a long time, the coffee consumed in Brazil was
00:06:29very dark and bitter, which is why it needed to be
00:06:33sweetened. Brazilians used to drink very
00:06:36bad coffee. This coffee that you buy at the supermarket, which
00:06:40is considered extra strong,
00:06:42for example, is not considered a quality coffee, right? For some
00:06:46years now, Brazilians have been looking for this better coffee, which are the
00:06:50specialty coffees. Not just any coffee can be
00:06:53classified as special. The candidate needs to
00:06:56meet a series of requirements, not only
00:06:59in relation to the drink, but also an analysis of the way the
00:07:03grain is produced, pre-harvest and harvest,
00:07:06geographical indication, respect for labor
00:07:09laws, etc. This is also linked to the change in the consumer
00:07:13profile, especially in the last
00:07:1620 years. We had a turnaround in coffee. We used to have
00:07:20an older generation that consumed coffee. Today, you have a
00:07:24younger generation, and this generation wants to know where this coffee
00:07:27comes from. Coffee conquers palates and
00:07:31eyes. This stunning
00:07:35landscape, in the municipality of Carmo de Minas, in the south of the
00:07:38state, has become the perfect setting
00:07:41for a tourist route.
00:07:43The view of the special
00:07:47coffee cultivated in the mountains is breathtaking,
00:07:49so much so that this couple came from Leopoldina, in the Zona
00:07:53da Mata Mineira, especially to
00:07:56visit the Torre farm. We came to learn a little,
00:07:59to have this
00:08:03whole immersion experience, knowing everything from the plant
00:08:06itself to the final process.
00:08:09The farm is family-owned. Álvaro
00:08:13represents the fourth generation of coffee growers. Keeping an eye
00:08:16on market changes, he was responsible for migrating from
00:08:20conventional production to the cultivation of special
00:08:24coffee. Initially, we thought more about the financial
00:08:26aspect to improve our livelihood
00:08:30in mountain coffee farming. But then we saw
00:08:33that it's not just financial; it's more of a passion that
00:08:37we focus on. The beans are harvested
00:08:39manually from the plant and go
00:08:42through a meticulous process. First, they are
00:08:45separated into four categories: ripe,
00:08:48green, overripe, and rotten. Next, they go for
00:08:52drying. The next stage is selection, and only the
00:08:55perfect fruits remain.
00:08:59All of this is worth gold. The Yellow
00:09:01Bourbon is the diamond of the farm.
00:09:04What makes this coffee so special?
00:09:08Mainly two factors: the geographical
00:09:11aspect. The location here is cold,
00:09:14the plantation is at 1300 meters of altitude,
00:09:17and the soil is good. And also the artisanal
00:09:20work. The entire plantation is
00:09:23hand-harvested, manually. That's right, I'm going to have
00:09:27an experience now that I've seen before, but never had
00:09:29before. This is your first time.
00:09:32Oh my goodness, it's
00:09:35delicious, it's sweet,
00:09:37very sweet.
00:09:43It's no wonder that this
00:09:45coffee has won the Oscar for special
00:09:48coffee 30 times.
00:09:51Wow, that's a lot of awards, isn't it? Tell me
00:09:55here, actually, we have
00:10:00awards from the Cup of Excellence from this half onwards,
00:10:04right? The Cup of Excellence, in this case, is a quality competition. The Brazilian
00:10:07Cup of Excellence Brazil is organized by the BSCA, which
00:10:11is the Brazil Special Coffee Association, a Brazilian special coffee association,
00:10:15and by Ace, which is the Alliance for Coffee
00:10:19Excellence. Right, so the two of them are the organizers of this competition,
00:10:22today it is the biggest special coffee competition in Brazil. Today, Sítio da Torre is
00:10:26a 30-time winner of it. What does it
00:10:30evaluate? It actually evaluates several sensory attributes of the drink,
00:10:33and in this competition, it goes through three phases of judges,
00:10:36two of national judges and one of international judges. They do
00:10:40cupping. Cupping, we can even see that spoon there is a cupping
00:10:44spoon. In it, we are going to taste the coffee
00:10:47sensorially and pick up attributes of sweetness,
00:10:50acidity, aftertaste, attributes also of
00:10:53aroma, fragrance, right? So, there are many
00:10:56sensory attributes, both taste, smell,
00:10:59touch. And as if it gave a seal there, this
00:11:02is the case. Based on these attributes, we give some scores to the coffee. The closer
00:11:05to 100, the better the score. Gustavo, what was your best
00:11:09award? Our best award in the Cup of
00:11:13Excellence was that certificate in the middle, which in this case was
00:11:17a first place award. We had a score of
00:11:2092.09. For comparison, the highest score ever
00:11:24seen in the world to date was 95.85
00:11:26points, right? That trophy there, for example, corresponds
00:11:30to that award.
00:11:33Álvaro's son, who is part of the fifth generation of the Coli family, cannot
00:11:37imagine himself away from coffee
00:11:45farming, much less from these lands. I went
00:11:48to study abroad for a while, a short time ago, and started studying architecture,
00:11:52but I didn't like it that much. I ended up missing the
00:11:55farm a lot, so I came back here to experience all of this, right? It's very
00:11:59gratifying. It's a passion we have for this
00:12:03that goes way back. Today, as we say,
00:12:06I can't live if it's not in the production of special coffees here at
00:12:09Sítio da Torre. What do these women have in
00:12:13common? You already know, right?
00:12:17Women have always participated in the coffee production
00:12:20process, in the
00:12:22planting, in the
00:12:29harvesting, in the selection, and even in
00:12:33the commercialization, or even as the coffee grower's
00:12:36wife, that is, his right-hand woman in this
00:12:39productive chain. But they didn't have
00:12:42visibility. Now they are gaining
00:12:46representation in the labor market.
00:12:48A survey conducted by Embrapa in 2021
00:12:52collected data on female participation in coffee farming in
00:13:05the country. The study showed that 40,000
00:13:08farms are managed by
00:13:11women. The number seems high, but it represents
00:13:14only 13.2% of the total. Still according to
00:13:18Embrapa, many women are in the role of spouse, co-managing
00:13:22properties. In these conditions are
00:13:2688,700 Brazilian women. 72% of these
00:13:30coffee farmers are in the Southeast
00:13:33region. There is an expansion in
00:13:36women's participation in agricultural activities,
00:13:40especially when it comes
00:13:40to management, right?
00:13:44So we see a lot of participation and great
00:13:48protagonism from women who have been growing more and more every
00:13:51day. And in coffee farming, it's no different. We notice and see
00:13:55various movements of women's groups, of entities
00:13:58that are seeing this as a market niche,
00:14:02as a new opportunity, and that the market has recognized, which is
00:14:05more important.
00:14:09Here in Minas, the Association of Coffee Women from Matas
00:14:13de Minas and Caparaó, AMU, brings together
00:14:1550
00:14:19producers. They united to achieve a stronger
00:14:23base to work with coffee. They are workers
00:14:26like Bárbara. The 31-year-old is part of the sixth
00:14:30generation of a family of coffee growers. She runs a
00:14:33farm in the city of Alto Jequitibá. But
00:14:37to take care of the 12,000 coffee trees, she faces
00:14:40daily challenges, among them prejudice.
00:14:44The fact that people, especially male
00:14:47workers, don't think we know how to do anything
00:14:50at all, right?
00:14:54When we have some kind of
00:14:58service and we ask someone to do something like that,
00:15:01it ends up that either they don't do it the way
00:15:04we ask, or they don't
00:15:08allow us to say anything,
00:15:11right? And so that's very sad.
00:15:15Because we women are not better than anyone
00:15:18else, and not worse. We
00:15:21just want to prove that we can do our work too. She
00:15:27left the farm to study economics. After
00:15:30graduating, she returned to apply the knowledge she
00:15:34acquired here. I feel very fulfilled, because
00:15:37we feel capable when we see that we are doing a job
00:15:40alone. Our generation is like that, right? We have a lot of people now who
00:15:44are leaving, studying, and coming back,
00:15:48right? We are specializing and because we want to pursue
00:15:51quality. You are rich. Oh, I wish!
00:15:55I am rich in God's grace, just
00:15:58that, the rest is wonderful. Very
00:16:02good. Dulce Neia also came
00:16:04back with everything after finishing university and faced
00:16:08what she calls a culturally male-dominated
00:16:10segment.
00:16:17Today, she is the director of internal relations at the International
00:16:20Alliance of Women in Coffee. The entity, which
00:16:23promotes and values quality coffees, encourages
00:16:27female participation in coffee policy
00:16:31decisions. There is a great exchange of
00:16:34experiences, because that's what women are, right? When women
00:16:37are united, their strength grows. We are
00:16:40competent, but we need to unite to show that
00:16:43competence. Silmara is the daughter and granddaughter
00:16:47of coffee growers and has always been involved.
00:16:50Last year, she decided to invest in her own
00:16:54plantation, and the coffee from the municipality of
00:17:03Jequitibá scored 91
00:17:06points in the Minas Gerais
00:17:09Emater coffee quality competition, a very
00:17:12high score. The competition is as follows: The
00:17:16Emater technicians, we have technicians in almost all
00:17:19municipalities, they collect samples from
00:17:23producers, guide producers through all
00:17:26stages to make special coffee. We collect
00:17:29these samples, take them to a committee of judges who are
00:17:32experienced in tasting special coffees, and there,
00:17:36from 1800 samples, we select the 24
00:17:39best samples from the state. After that, an
00:17:43award is given to these coffee growers. We continue
00:17:47the work after the competition, which is to
00:17:50verify, based on the report of the samples, what problems
00:17:54the producers had. The award gave the
00:17:57producer the desire to continue living in the
00:18:00countryside and producing what she calls a rare
00:18:04gem. We have already managed to be
00:18:19recognized in competitions, right? Today we are part of
00:18:22competitions, we are seen in the competitions
00:18:25we participate in. So, for
00:18:27us, it's a great source of pride,
00:18:29right? Talking about coffee today means talking with our
00:18:33heart. And speaking of prominence in coffee
00:18:35culture, this is Cyntia. In
00:18:382021, this woman from Minas by heart was considered by
00:18:42Forbes magazine one of the 100 most powerful
00:18:46women in agribusiness.
00:18:46I consider myself
00:18:52powerful, certainly, right? This
00:18:55is something I won't let go of,
00:18:58by any means, right? I am powerful because I am empowered by
00:19:02several powerful women.
00:19:04Currently, she is the president of the Association of Women
00:19:08Coffee Growers of Matas de Minas and Caparaó. The
00:19:11seeds they plant will soon yield even
00:19:15more fruit. Our challenge is still to really take our
00:19:19rightful place, right? Sometimes we have, as we say
00:19:22here in the countryside, right, sometimes we have to assert ourselves to be at the
00:19:26forefront. We need more women, right,
00:19:29with this
00:19:30strength, right, with this mindset of going
00:19:33together. The numbers are still small, right, for us to
00:19:37see these women really having this
00:19:41visibility, but the steps are firm, we are going in the
00:19:44right direction. And it's never too late to start.
00:19:48Ana only discovered the flavor that came from her family's
00:19:51farm after retiring. Today, she only drinks
00:19:55coffee grown here.
00:19:57If I travel, I stop drinking coffee if I don't bring
00:20:01my coffee. In fact,
00:20:04last week I didn't drink coffee.
00:20:08As women, we feel more
00:20:11valued, because it's our
00:20:14work. So when we feel, we realize that
00:20:18our coffee is better, it
00:20:22means that every year we can
00:20:25improve and produce a better quality
00:20:28coffee. This is very gratifying.
00:20:31from coffee, one of the main references in special
00:20:34coffees in Minas Gerais. And here we are going to
00:20:37talk to Júlia, Brazilian barista champion.
00:20:41It's no wonder, astonishingly, she took her
00:20:45first course at 10
00:20:45years old, her second at
00:20:5012. At 15 years old, she started
00:20:53working in the profession. And so, Júlia, do you have
00:20:56coffee? Oh, yes,
00:21:00she does. Her experience with coffee started very
00:21:03early. After all, Júlia's great-great-grandfather was already a coffee
00:21:07grower. When she was a child, she lived very close to the
00:21:10plantations in the city of Campos Altos in Alto
00:21:14Paranaíba. Later, the family moved to Belo Horizonte
00:21:17and later to the United States. Júlia accompanied
00:21:21her parents who went to work abroad. Guess what?
00:21:24With coffee.
00:21:28My parents opened an import company for Brazilian specialty
00:21:31coffees, precisely to change a little the perception
00:21:35of the United States regarding our coffee. And there I experienced another
00:21:38part, another environment, right? Before it was the farm, and now
00:21:40I started to live in
00:21:46coffee shops. Upon returning to Brazil, Júlia came
00:21:50to help her father at the Academia do Café. The school was
00:21:54inaugurated in 2011 and offers courses on introduction to
00:21:57special coffee, sensory analysis, barista,
00:22:01roasting, classification,
00:22:04and tasting. We were pioneers here in Belo Horizonte for
00:22:08specialty coffees, as a coffee shop, as a
00:22:12roastery. All of this is because my father had this experience
00:22:15of the final stage, right? Not just the beginning, which is in
00:22:19production, but also in coffee shops, roasteries, how it was offered
00:22:22to the public. The family wanted to go
00:22:25further, to provide common people like you and
00:22:28me with the pleasure of tasting special
00:22:32coffee. The doors of the school were opened because
00:22:35from the coffee shop, we saw that there was a lot of demand from
00:22:39consumers to learn more about coffee. What is it, why is this
00:22:42coffee different from the other? There's a more fruity one, there's a more chocolatey
00:22:45one. How is this, how can we perceive
00:22:48this? The beans that supply this
00:22:52space come mainly from the family's coffee plantation, which produces
00:22:55about 2,500 bags of specialty
00:22:59coffee per year. Now, this champion will present three brewing
00:23:03methods: The first is the
00:23:07V60, a dripper designed in a V shape and a 60-degree
00:23:11angle, with spirals on the inside that facilitate the expansion of the coffee grounds
00:23:14and a large opening at the base that allows controlling the water flow
00:23:18speed, very different from a common
00:23:22dripper. Now I'm going to put the coffee grounds, which are
00:23:26medium-fine ground for the V60. The V60 is an extraction
00:23:29method where we have it by gravity, right? So it
00:23:33makes the coffee more balanced, it will bring more elegance, more balance,
00:23:37more sweetness to the cup. Here I'm going to
00:23:40make some infusions, right? Pour the water
00:23:44slowly in circular movements to have a homogeneous extraction, to make sure
00:23:47that all the particles of the
00:23:51bean are in contact with the water
00:23:54to produce a sweet and balanced drink.
00:23:58The best tip for a quality coffee at home
00:24:02is quality water, quality coffee. Brewed coffee is composed of
00:24:0698% water, so there's no point in us
00:24:09investing in all the equipment, a wonderful coffee, if we don't
00:24:13use quality water. What is quality
00:24:14water?
00:24:19Filtered or mineral. It will change a lot depending on the coffee, so it's
00:24:23good if you like these tests. I love
00:24:26testing different waters with different pH, different, right,
00:24:28different structures even.
00:24:32Now let's get to know another method, Aeropress.
00:24:36There are several ways to do it. I'm going to leave the coffee immersed in water to bring more
00:24:40body and intensity to the drink.
00:24:43So in this recipe of ours from the Coffee Academy, we use
00:24:4621
00:24:51grams for
00:24:55200 ml of water.
00:24:59So here I'm going to put
00:25:00a coarse grind because we are going to leave
00:25:03it immersed in coffee. If I grind it too fine, it can bring
00:25:07bitterness to the drink. So we do everything that we leave immersed for
00:25:09longer, we balance it with the grind size, with the coffee grind.
00:25:13So here I'm using a coarser
00:25:18grind, and I'm going to leave it
00:25:20like that and weigh my water. I'm going to leave it immersed for a
00:25:24while, the grind is coarser, so I'm going to leave it for 4 minutes, but first
00:25:27I'm going to put only 100 ml, which is half of the final
00:25:31volume, and I'm going to stir.
00:25:34To make sure that all the particles of the
00:25:38bean, right, the ground bean will be in contact with the
00:25:41water, and I'm going to complete the 200
00:25:45ml. pressed by air, like a syringe,
00:25:48its operation is exactly like a syringe, so we have to
00:25:51leave a layer of air here on top for it to be pressed by the air. This will
00:25:55give a whole structure to the drink, just like any other method, this is its
00:25:58characteristic. Exactly, Júlia, it's a
00:26:02little bit, you have to apply a little pressure, but since it's on glass, I
00:26:06don't like to press it all at once, it doesn't break,
00:26:09right? It's ready. I always like to
00:26:13homogenize the drink. We extract different parts of
00:26:15the coffee, so always homogenize,
00:26:18mix to make sure that we will have a balanced
00:26:22drink. And
00:26:25finally, how about toasting with
00:26:26a cappuccino?
00:26:29So it's a double espresso, then I'm going to steam the milk
00:26:33very creamy for us to make the cappuccino.
00:26:36Coffee farming generates more than 8
00:26:38million direct and
00:26:43indirect jobs in the country and is the main activity of
00:26:45Minas Gerais agribusiness.
00:26:49And it's away from the plantations that many people work with coffee.
00:26:53Anyone who comes to this
00:26:54coffee shop for the first time is surprised by
00:27:06the special drinks
00:27:10and also by the cosmetics that have been
00:27:13made.
00:27:17gente trabalha com café, quem chega pela primeira vez nesta
00:27:21cafeteria se surpreende com as bebidas
00:27:23especiais
00:27:29coffee as the... main
00:27:32ingredient.
00:27:37I think it's interesting, right? Because
00:27:40I'm a coffee lover, I really like coffee and there
00:27:44are these products there. I'm saying I use their moisturizer, my
00:27:48hair also, the hydration is different, I was
00:27:51positively surprised, there are
00:27:54moisturizers, soaps, exfoliants,
00:27:57shampoos, anti-aging treatment creams
00:28:01and even sunscreen. Solar. The innovative
00:28:04idea came from this pharmacist, daughter of a
00:28:07coffee grower from Três Pontas in the south of Minas. Vanessa noticed that
00:28:11the hands of those who work harvesting
00:28:15and decided to study the properties of coffee
00:28:18oils. Thus, she launched a line of
00:28:22cosmetics in 2007. The initiative earned her two
00:28:25important awards, for entrepreneurship by the UN in
00:28:282010 and for innovation by the National Confederation of...
00:28:32Industry in 2011. The coffee
00:28:35used in cosmetics has international certifications for
00:28:39sustainable production and rational use of
00:28:42natural resources. And of course, I
00:28:44tried it.
00:28:46Luciana, I'm noticing that it doesn't have the smell of coffee, right? But it has
00:28:50a fragrance, where does it come from? It comes from the
00:28:53little coffee, the little green bean that is very
00:28:57soft, right? And besides, since
00:29:00this moisturizer has sugar. it has
00:29:03grape seed, it also brings this very good remembrance, right? It's a
00:29:06delight.
00:29:11Another segment of the production chain are the
00:29:14roasters. Júnior, for example, receives
00:29:17special coffees from 11 farms. The beans are
00:29:20roasted to supply his cafeteria and several others
00:29:24scattered across the country and even
00:29:28around the world. Special coffee, it has to be fresh,
00:29:31so we... it's just in time, so we roast coffee, pack
00:29:35it and ship coffee on the same day. The roasting
00:29:39master is João Vitor, who is an expert, despite
00:29:42being only 23 years old, where we have to bring, right,
00:29:46even more in the storage process, a polishing, right, in the process
00:29:50where we can highlight exotic
00:29:53beverages in several coffees. And the passion is
00:29:56so great that it overflows. My biggest
00:29:59dream, right, is to be able to teach people to work with
00:30:03special coffee, right, which is what I like to do the most. I
00:30:06wake up breathing coffee, I go to sleep
00:30:10thinking about coffee and that's my
00:30:13life.
00:30:15For us, it remains a beautiful memory that is renewed with
00:30:19each cup.
00:30:31Welcome. Today's zapping is already on
00:30:35air.
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00:30:46neglect their own health even more. Therefore,
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00:30:53anticipating the promotion for Blue November with unmissable
00:30:57conditions. Pay attention to the tip.