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00:00:12These are not travel notes with Dmitry
00:00:14Krylov.
00:00:17Hello, Travelers. I continue my story about a unique
00:00:21expedition along the route Kamchatka, Commander
00:00:24Islands, Chukotka. In these remote
00:00:27hard-to-reach places, a small
00:00:30number of lucky people managed to visit, and
00:00:34today, we are among them. Isn't that a miracle? We spent
00:00:3810 days in the cold waters of the Pacific Ocean, by the way,
00:00:41almost quiet during our journey. On
00:00:45some days, it was even friendly, which is rare in these
00:00:48latitudes. On one such day, some decided to
00:00:52bask in the sun and swim in the pool, which at first
00:00:55seemed like a mockery on this trip, but who
00:00:59would decide to refresh themselves in these harsh lands? However,
00:01:02brave ones were found. All 10 days, our cruisers were
00:01:06practically without connection to the outside world. No, I said
00:01:10something stupid, because for these days, the outside world turned out to be all
00:01:13these beauties, northern,
00:01:16harsh, wild, but no less
00:01:19beautiful for it. And that familiar outside world, with
00:01:22solving endless problems, with the routine of every day, turned out to be
00:01:26distant, almost unreal. So maybe it's for such
00:01:29a feeling that one should go to such places, huh?
00:01:58A little about the ship that the cruise is on. This is
00:02:01an expeditionary mega-yacht, a comfortable
00:02:04modern icebreaker-type liner, capable of making expeditions in the most
00:02:07unfavorable conditions. It
00:02:11can handle routes in northern latitudes and voyages to the South
00:02:15Pole, coping with ice up to one and a half
00:02:18meters thick. Yes, voyages in such latitudes are often associated with
00:02:21storms, and therefore pitching, and what about those who suffer from seasickness?
00:02:25How to deal with it? Does that mean such cruises are not for
00:02:28them? No, there is...
00:02:37The noise makes it difficult to understand how everything is arranged, but
00:02:40it is impressive. Andrey told us about the most modern
00:02:43stabilization system. It is located underwater. I won't
00:02:47burden you with technical terms that Andrey sprinkles around,
00:02:50but imagine that at the bottom, in the center of the ship,
00:02:53a bird with spread wings is attached,
00:02:56which constantly makes counter-movements. These underwater
00:02:59wings monitor the balance
00:03:02every second, reacting to the liner's movement and
00:03:05stabilizing the hull's position. Here's what our
00:03:08captain said about our liner's stabilization system:
00:03:11"Stabilizers that calm the pitching, and I
00:03:15can tell you that they do their job very
00:03:18well. There is a very big difference if the stabilizers
00:03:22are working and if they are not working." In general, all
00:03:26the technical life of the liner is hidden from the passengers' eyes, and the captain's bridge is
00:03:30not a place for excursions, but it's curious, isn't it? Here our captain
00:03:33dispelled the myth about him, as always, standing at the helm,
00:03:36looking into the sea distance. No, the ship is given
00:03:40a course, which it follows on autopilot. On the captain's bridge,
00:03:44an officer and a watch seaman are usually on duty. The captain
00:03:47is on the bridge only during some special maneuvers,
00:03:50when entering and leaving port, when lowering zodiacs into the water,
00:03:54in case of unfavorable weather conditions, waves, wind,
00:03:58fog, difficult ice situation.
00:04:30Casus. Our Commander Islands, it turns out, were completely
00:04:33accidentally preserved for Russia. When in 1867,
00:04:37when selling Alaska, Alexander II circled the
00:04:40Aleutian Ridge and Alaska, the Commander Islands miraculously did not fall
00:04:44under this distribution. Those territories were sold for seven and a little over
00:04:48million dollars in gold. By the way,
00:04:5130 years later, gold was found in Alaska. And the
00:04:55famous American gold rush began, but
00:04:58alas, this no longer applies to Russia.
00:05:05One day we headed to Copper Island. Yes, strong winds and waves
00:05:09when approaching it did not spare the zodiac passengers. Well,
00:05:12yes, not exactly Hawaii. Copper is the second largest island in
00:05:16the archipelago. Unlike the partially inhabited Bering Island,
00:05:20this land is absolutely uninhabited, and the house
00:05:23found on the slope turned out to be a lodge for scientists to stay overnight, who come
00:05:26here to study the local untouched fauna and flora.
00:05:30Our ranger Ivan explained that according to unwritten rules, there should always
00:05:34be a supply of firewood, water, and food. He lit the stove,
00:05:38cooked himself pasta with canned meat, and life seemed not so
00:05:41bad. And the name. Gardona Kislya is explained by deposits of sea
00:05:44cabbage, which thickly covers the entire shore,
00:05:48lying there, fermenting. We tried it, it's quite edible. In
00:05:52our supermarkets, it's sold in jars. High
00:05:55cliffs, deep gorges, steep precipices, the coastline
00:05:59has almost no gentle sections. The ocean here crashes into
00:06:02the rock, creating grottoes, arches, and powerful surf
00:06:06zones. Copper Island got its name back in the 15th
00:06:10century after the discovery of native copper here, but
00:06:13due to the remoteness and inaccessibility of the island, the idea
00:06:17of mining it turned out to be unfeasible. What copper?
00:06:20Try to get here. In the early 19th century, sea
00:06:23animal hunters came to Copper. For hunting, 17 families of
00:06:26Aleuts were brought
00:06:29here. Hunters transported goods by dogs. Here,
00:06:32dug trails are still preserved. They are called dog
00:06:35trails.
00:06:40We rounded Bering Island and headed to Commander
00:06:43Bay. In this very bay, then still
00:06:46nameless, on November 28,
00:06:491741, the great storm,
00:06:52as it was later called, washed ashore the packet boat
00:06:55St. Peter, the flagship of the Second Kamchatka
00:06:58Expedition under the command of Vitus Bering.
00:07:02Let me remind you, the goal of the expedition was to reach Alaska, that is, the shores
00:07:06of North America. On the way, many on the ship began to suffer from
00:07:09scurvy, including Bering, who was almost completely
00:07:13exhausted.
00:07:16Realizing the severity of what was happening and the rapidly deteriorating
00:07:19weather situation, Bering decided: "We will
00:07:22dock at any shore for wintering." Seeing
00:07:26a large bay in the fog, he decided that it was the coast of Kamchatka. When
00:07:30entering the bay, the ship was thrown onto a reef by a storm. The ship's
00:07:33bottom was pierced, but fortunately, if one can even
00:07:37speak of fortune here, the packet boat was carried over
00:07:40a sandy
00:07:42spit to the shore by powerful waves. Thus, about 50
00:07:46sailors ended up on shore, almost half of whom were sick with scurvy. Under this
00:07:50slope, the sailors dug shallow pit dwellings,
00:07:53stretching canvas instead of roofs. In these cold graves, as Steller called
00:07:57them, people spent more than 9 months.
00:08:00The sick, completely weakened Vitus Bering was carried from the ship
00:08:04to a tiny dugout. In it, he died on December 8,
00:08:081741, exactly one month
00:08:11after the shipwreck. A wooden cross stands at the site of his
00:08:15initial burial.
00:08:18In 1992, the remains of the sailors were reburied
00:08:21higher up the slope. So the Commander and his companions finally
00:08:25found their place of final
00:08:27rest. And it was the right decision. Not to move
00:08:31the body of the great commander to the mainland, where he would solemnly rest,
00:08:34encased in granite, but to leave the great navigator here, on
00:08:38the harsh expanses, swept by the free
00:08:41wind. The crew of the St. Peter managed to winter,
00:08:45surviving in incredibly harsh conditions for 9
00:08:48months. 9 months of deprivation, cold,
00:08:52hunger, and disease, without any real prospects
00:08:55of getting out. But despite everything, doomed to death,
00:08:58the sailors continued to fight for life. Yes, it looks like
00:09:02a miracle, but luckily the crew managed not only to survive, but to build
00:09:06a new ship from the wreckage of the old one, on which, with the start
00:09:09of navigation, they set off on the return journey.
00:09:13Today, Commander Bay is a place of memory and historical heritage of
00:09:17Russia. During the expedition's voyage from Alaska to the Commander
00:09:20Archipelago, here on Bering Island, 31
00:09:23people died, and 19 of them during
00:09:27this nine-month wintering. The Commander's name
00:09:30is etched four times on the map of our country. This is Bering
00:09:34Island, which became the last refuge of the important
00:09:36navigator. In the north of the Pacific Ocean, there is
00:09:40the Bering Sea. Asia from America is separated by the Bering
00:09:44Strait. This entire group of islands was named the
00:09:47Commander Islands in honor of Vitus Bering.
00:09:51We are in one of the most unique regions of our
00:09:54country, we are in the Amur region, this floating monster
00:09:57as tall as a five-story house is called a dredge, and its task is to mine
00:10:01gold. How much gold can it mine? Up to one and a half tons
00:10:05of dredges mine from one
00:10:11ago I came to this place. The concept was to give people
00:10:20is the reindeer so important in the lives of the
00:10:23Evenks? Well, how... Well, it's both food and
00:10:26transport. Are we still the number one space
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00:12:37Buclin
00:12:40Oh, what a surprise! Leonid Isakovich, already
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00:12:55It's already 6 AM.
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00:15:03Let me remind you, the Commander Islands and the adjacent
00:15:06thirty-kilometer water area are all part of the Commander
00:15:09National Park. This part of the Pacific Ocean is considered one of
00:15:13the favorite water areas for whales, orcas,
00:15:16belugas. The waters here are so rich in food that all this
00:15:19large-sized public comes here to feast
00:15:23and build up fat.
00:15:30Along the shores, there are rookeries of unafraid Northern fur seals,
00:15:33seals, sea otters, and Steller sea lions. Indigenous...
00:15:36Стелера, коренных...
00:16:07therefore its dense fur coat is the only protection against
00:16:11the cold. In former times, the sea otter's fur was valued even higher
00:16:14than ermine, and so our furry friend was mercilessly
00:16:18hunted. On the Commander Islands, scientists have
00:16:20registered 10 species of pinnipeds. We observed
00:16:24the sea lions and seals
00:16:27clinging to the rocks. The roaring and growling are terrifying. This is sea lions
00:16:30settling scores. They are quarrelsome creatures, and also
00:16:34very timid. Our boats, which were at a considerable
00:16:38distance from the rocks, still forced them to jump into the water.
00:16:41Clumsy and awkward on land, they become pure
00:16:45grace in the water. The seals behave more restrained and
00:16:48dignified. Well done,
00:16:50seals.
00:16:53By the way, about birds. The coastal cliffs are populated by them with the same
00:16:56density as cheap apartment buildings somewhere in a
00:16:59Chinese metropolis. Well, perhaps with less noise and
00:17:02Chinese people. The clamor of this bird metropolis also does not
00:17:06subside, sometimes even overpowering the roar of the waves.
00:17:09On the cliffs, there are thousands of murres, gulls, kittiwakes, tufted puffins,
00:17:12and auks. Oh, the feathered creatures occupy every ledge, every
00:17:16crevice. And only the proud cormorants
00:17:18settle separately and seem not to participate in this
00:17:22noisy market of thousands. On narrow ledges directly
00:17:25above the ocean waves, the ceaseless feathered life
00:17:29unfolds, never quieting for a minute, never sleeping
00:17:32at night. Loud courtships and fights with enemies occur. Gray-winged
00:17:36gulls are the main hooligans on the cliffs; they
00:17:39eagerly await another tufted puffin to snatch
00:17:43its prey, and of course, the eternal disputes over the best spot.
00:17:46Madam, you weren't sitting here. By the way, tufted puffins, unlike gulls,
00:17:50do not build nests. With their powerful and beautiful beaks, the males
00:17:54dig a burrow in the soft peat. Due to their bright, exotic
00:17:57appearance, which doesn't quite match these harsh
00:18:00lands, tufted puffins are also called sea parrots or
00:18:03clowns. Aren't they beautiful? True?
00:18:07And how wise nature is! For Murres, she came up with a special egg
00:18:11shape, resembling a pear. If the female
00:18:14accidentally pushes it, an egg of this shape has a better
00:18:18chance of not falling off the cliff. Murre birds are generally unusual
00:18:22in many ways. They settle in 20 pairs per square meter
00:18:25of steep cliffs. The female lays a single
00:18:28egg, and 3 weeks after the chick is born,
00:18:32still weak, fluffy, unable to fly, the parents
00:18:36literally entice it to jump off the cliff
00:18:39down. Yes, not all of them safely plop into
00:18:43the saving water, some break on the cliff,
00:18:46but the parents go to such a desperate act not because they are
00:18:49monsters, it's just that it's much safer for the chicks in the water,
00:18:53predators won't get to them, and there's plenty of food around. In
00:18:57the water, the dad takes care of it, the chick gains strength,
00:19:01learns to fly. Murres are clumsy on land, they only go there
00:19:04for nesting, their element is water, they
00:19:08dive excellently to a depth of 100 m. Well, almost
00:19:12like penguins. And another amazing fact: outside
00:19:15the breeding season, Murres and parents do not stay together,
00:19:19they often migrate for huge distances alone, but
00:19:23they do form pairs for life, that is, for
00:19:2620-30 years, and are faithful not only
00:19:29to their partner, but also to a specific spot on the cliff where
00:19:32they meet every spring. Yes, that's
00:19:35such swan-like, or rather... Murre-like fidelity.
00:19:39Comrades, let's take an example from the Murres, if it's not
00:19:41too late.
00:19:44You know, I'm very glad that I had the opportunity to shoot such landscapes more than once in
00:19:47different parts of the planet. And I really want you to
00:19:51become real witnesses and see
00:19:54it with your own eyes. But if some of you, for now, and "for now" is
00:19:58the defining word, don't have such an opportunity, then
00:20:01we'll meet next time on screen and continue our acquaintance with
00:20:05the Far East, but in our ex... until
00:20:08next time, happy for now, your
00:20:11faithful as a murre DK, and don't
00:20:14forget, all episodes of the program "Travel Notes" can be found on
00:20:18the Channel One website.