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00:00:00we study the ancient heritage of civilizations, and also
00:00:03meet interesting people, try
00:00:06local cuisine and together, learn how
00:00:09to cook it. We are opening our new
00:00:13season again with you. I'm the host of the program,
00:00:16Zurab Dvali.
00:00:30Art in details.
00:00:33Writer Leila Slimani talks about the final part
00:00:36of her family trilogy. Artist Rashid Johnson steps out of
00:00:40his comfort zone.
00:00:43And we'll also get to know Greenlandic photographer
00:00:46Inootek Storchen better. But first, the history of things.
00:00:50Plastic surgery.
00:00:52Friend, where are your wrinkles? Who looks
00:00:56like this at 70 years old?
00:01:08Her cheekbones are flawless, and her lips are fuller than my hair in
00:01:12a storm. How is that possible? Well, she herself
00:01:15admitted that she had a facelift by a celebrity
00:01:18surgeon.
00:01:20In Hollywood, it's generally not customary to be shy about minor corrections.
00:01:24In addition to all this, social networks and filters raise the bar for ideals
00:01:27of perfection and youth.
00:01:30This obsession with perfection has permeated everyday life, and now
00:01:34unrealistic beauty standards stress all
00:01:37of us daily.
00:01:39But here's what's important: plastic surgery is not an invention of the 21st
00:01:43century at all; its history goes deep into the past. Many
00:01:47believe that cosmetic surgery originated in Europe after the world
00:01:50wars. However, the scalpel appeared much
00:01:54earlier, and over time, ancient medicine turned into a multibillion-dollar
00:01:57beauty industry.
00:02:08Probably even in ancient times, mothers already shouted, "I told
00:02:11you not to get that piercing." How do we
00:02:14know? Ancient manuscripts already contain descriptions of how to treat torn
00:02:18earlobes. This man, the one with a bun on
00:02:22his head, wrote a revolutionary book, one of the oldest known
00:02:26texts on surgery. These are not just medical notes, there are compiled
00:02:30detailed instructions for changing the nose, real
00:02:32rhinoplasty, as well as skin transplants and ear
00:02:35restoration, and this happened more than 2,500 years before
00:02:39social networks made nose surgery fashionable. So long before
00:02:43hyaluronic fillers and baby Botox, ancient societies already performed
00:02:46face lifts, not for beauty, but so that they could go out without sideways
00:02:50glances and whispers behind their backs. Appearance has always mattered, even
00:02:54thousands of years ago. Centuries passed and the world faced new
00:02:58traumas, which means medicine again... had to
00:03:00change.
00:03:03Facial reconstruction during the world wars.
00:03:07New weapons, new horror: thousands of soldiers
00:03:10return with disfigured faces, torn
00:03:13jaws, burnt skin, lost
00:03:16eyes. This surgeon worked in Great Britain, he became
00:03:20a pioneer of modern plastic surgery, biomaterials from skin,
00:03:23flaps, new methods of facial reconstruction. Fortunately, by
00:03:27that time, anesthesia already existed. with pigs,
00:04:34because
00:04:34they became
00:04:41living participants in experiments; new methods of reconstructive surgery were practiced
00:04:45on them. Mackindoe reconstructed the burnt
00:04:48faces of pilots of the Royal Air Force of Great Britain. The surgeon also
00:04:51improved skin grafting. The war
00:04:54turned reconstructive surgery into a global science. There was
00:04:58a need for this.
00:05:21in line for a facelift, rhinoplasty. In
00:05:251962, the first silicone
00:05:28implant appeared. 10 years later, liposuction. Doesn't it seem
00:05:32strange that doctors literally suck fat from under the skin to make the body look
00:05:36taut? Plastic surgery changed
00:05:39its focus from medical necessity to personal
00:05:45choice. Perfection. Here's a fact: the number of cosmetic surgeries
00:05:52is growing. Today, they are treated almost like after-dinner mints. For
00:05:56example, where would stars like Liz Taylor, Cher, and Pamela Anderson be now
00:05:59if a surgeon's scalpel hadn't become their best friend? Nineties stars
00:06:03made plastic surgery a constant topic of discussion in
00:06:06pop culture. They embraced the idea of enhancing appearance, and the public
00:06:10followed their idols.
00:06:16into a dinner table conversation topic. Before and after became
00:06:19a separate genre. A little lift here, a little filler there,
00:06:23common practice, just part of the fun.
00:06:26We now live in an era where Bella Hadid's nose job at
00:06:2914 and Kylie Jenner's teenage implants have become
00:06:32the standard, and Generation Z, they don't just look at
00:06:36it, but sign up for appointments. Since the beginning of
00:06:39the pandemic, the number of procedures has sharply... grown worldwide.
00:06:43An unprecedented number of people are seeking them, be it surgery,
00:06:46injections, or other
00:06:49non-invasive methods. The focus is now on faces, not
00:06:53bodies, with eyelid surgery and the rankings. This boom is
00:06:56Botox topping global in nature and the trend
00:07:00is shifting towards a younger generation. The United
00:07:03States leads the world ranking in the total number of aesthetic procedures,
00:07:07thanks to a wide choice of non-surgical
00:07:10treatments. Please watch.
00:07:22a teenager in the US is already planning to undergo plastic surgery to get rid
00:07:25of signs of aging. This trend is actively fueled by social media
00:07:28filters. People are getting used to a retouched version of their own
00:07:32face. Brazil leads in the number of surgical
00:07:36cosmetic procedures. Body contouring, popular there. In
00:07:39liposuction, and breast augmentation are especially
00:07:42American culture, beauty and self-identity are closely
00:07:45intertwined.
00:07:48Japan ranks third in the world in the number of aesthetic
00:07:51procedures, with an emphasis on naturalness. Non-invasive
00:07:54in demand, reflecting methods, skin tightening procedures,
00:07:58and injections are most the trend towards subtle cosmetic
00:08:01enhancements. Iran is often called the world's capital
00:08:05of rhinoplasty. Recently, the country lowered the minimum
00:08:09age for cosmetic surgery to 14.
00:08:42reflects not only a change in beauty ideals, but it shows what
00:08:46is important to us as a society, the pursuit of perfection
00:08:49and the constant need to improve ourselves. Perhaps the main question
00:08:53is not how far surgery has advanced, but
00:08:56why we have gone so
00:08:57far.
00:09:03We meet with the famous Franco-Moroccan writer
00:09:06Leila Slimani in Lisbon, where she has lived for several
00:09:09years. Here, according to her, she writes
00:09:12more freely. Leila's latest novel is the most
00:09:16personal of all she has created so far. The main
00:09:19character is also a writer. Mia suffers from hot flashes
00:09:23and struggles to find the right words. In her Parisian
00:09:26apartment, she tries to remember her childhood, but her thoughts are as if
00:09:30enveloped in fog.
00:09:32I lost my bearings, everything got confused,
00:09:35fiction. My ideas about myself, about my
00:09:38grandfathers, about grandmothers, parents, my own
00:09:41memories. I wanted to capture this state that
00:09:45sometimes arises when you write, when you lose
00:09:48yourself.
00:09:52"In the Fire of Herself" is a work of fiction, but it
00:09:55is largely based on Leila Slimani's own
00:09:58biography. This is the final book in the family saga, which
00:10:02tells the story of three generations. The last part
00:10:05is dedicated to her own generation, to the problems of identity
00:10:08and the question, "Who am I?" In search of her past, Mia
00:10:12travels to Morocco. She and her sister received a privileged
00:10:16upbringing in Rabat in the eighties. At home,
00:10:19they spoke French and attended a private French school.
00:10:23Their parents belonged to values,
00:10:32but at the same time, without connection to Moroccan culture and the reality of
00:10:35the country.
00:10:41They allow the girls to freely express their
00:10:43thoughts.
00:10:46They tell them about gender equality, secularism,
00:10:49all of that. But they also instill in them that outside
00:10:53the home, everything is different.
00:10:55In doing so, they draw a very disturbing line for these young
00:10:59creatures between the inner world and the outer.
00:11:03Parents want to protect them from the authoritarian regime of King Hassan
00:11:07II. This was an era of abductions
00:11:10and human rights violations.
00:11:13The proclamation of liberal values in the privacy of the home seems
00:11:16to Mia to be an act of cowardice. At the same time, she herself denies her
00:11:20sexuality and
00:11:21femininity.
00:11:25lesbian nature, as she believes that those around her will not understand her. At a young age, she realizes that if you want to be part of society and be popular,
00:11:35a woman, because she lives in a society where
00:11:37a woman is doomed to submission, she has come to terms with the fact
00:11:41that she will never admit her
00:11:45you have to betray yourself.
00:11:49How to stay true to yourself? Leila Slimani's novel also tells the story
00:11:52of her late father, a respected
00:12:11My mother, of course, also had a career, but also other
00:12:12activities.
00:12:15She cooked, she took care of us, she knew how to
00:12:17laugh.
00:12:20Father didn't know how to live, he didn't understand
00:12:23life.
00:13:28What part of yourself do you have to suppress so as not to appear too
00:13:31Arab? This novel also explores female
00:13:35identity and the pressure that girls face, including in
00:13:39the Western world. Mia's sister rushes to her in Paris and also
00:13:42experiences the weight of expectations. She wants to be
00:13:46accepted, dreams of a family and children, for a time even
00:13:49abandoning her dream of emancipation for this
00:13:52life.
00:13:55Freedom is more complicated than we think. Most people don't
00:13:58want to be independent, they prefer money, security, and
00:14:02comfort. I don't believe that people have a desire for
00:14:05freedom. Everything is much more complicated. I explore
00:14:08this in my book. How free do we want to be, what
00:14:12are we willing to sacrifice for freedom. Mother,
00:14:15feminist, Moroccan-French. Slimani manages to convey
00:14:18the complexity of coexisting multiple identities and how
00:14:22everything eventually comes together as a whole. Sometimes you feel in
00:14:25the depths of your soul that you know who you are,
00:14:29and what you are, you carry within you like a fire. Wherever
00:14:33you go, you don't need anyone else's opinion to understand who
00:14:37you are.
00:14:39"In the Fire of Herself." For Leila Slimani, this means
00:14:43recognizing her roots and at the same time living a free, independent
00:14:47life.
00:14:54Next. American artist Rashid Johnson, whose work
00:14:57addresses issues of race and social
00:15:00inequality.
00:15:03My name is Rashid.
00:15:06Rashid Johnson is extremely punctual. He drinks a lot of water
00:15:09and exercises daily. He likes
00:15:12established routines, even in his own Brooklyn studio. They help
00:15:16him maintain composure and cope with
00:15:18anxiety.
00:15:20"Anxious Men" is the title of his most famous series of works.
00:16:40Soul is an incredibly complex topic, and
00:16:44it seems that precisely what attracts me to it is that it raises
00:16:48many questions in people. How can one
00:16:51influence it at all, how does it affect us,
00:16:55what kind of dialogue is possible with
00:16:59the very idea of the soul, can it be nurtured,
00:17:03healed, supported, or
00:17:06can it be lost?
00:17:11The word "soul" is complex, rich in meanings. It is
00:17:14one of the key elements of Black pop culture. In Johnson's works,
00:17:18the theme of self-reflection, the so-called recurs. The artist
00:17:22double consciousness, constantly tries to break down this imposed
00:17:25vision. His works are called conceptual
00:17:28post-black art.
00:17:31Many perceive Black identity as something
00:17:34serious, almost without humor. It is not
00:17:38something fixed, the concept changes, it contains
00:17:41tension, and fear, but also joy and happiness.
00:17:45I think it's important to see all of this in Black
00:17:48identity at once. We need to truly open up this
00:17:51concept to the full range of meanings that it can carry
00:17:55within itself. And understand irony. We
00:17:59are talking about the post-state of what was
00:18:01originally an already invented
00:18:04construction.
00:18:07His art is emotional, powerful, and intellectual.
00:18:11The conditions in which it is created are becoming increasingly
00:18:14harsh. In the US, pressure is intensifying on
00:18:17intellectuals, the academic community, and journalists, as
00:18:20part of the fight against the so-called elites. Another
00:18:23chapter in the controversial history of the United States, where education
00:18:27and critical thinking are now openly
00:18:29rejected.
00:18:52in them, as is well known, there were often characters who strongly resisted any kind of intellectual interaction and
00:18:54discourse.
00:18:57They needed action. In my own experience, there have been and
00:19:00still are moments when I believe that over-complication
00:19:04detracts from creativity.
00:19:09Nevertheless, I am deeply committed to such an
00:19:12intellectual approach. This
00:19:15still underlies and is at the heart of much
00:19:18of my own
00:19:20practice.
00:19:23Now, United States politics does not allow for
00:19:25ambivalence. Since Trump took office,
00:19:29approximately a third of museums have lost state
00:19:31funding. The government interferes with the work of large
00:19:35institutions, exhibitions, publications, and websites. So-called
00:19:38"anti-American content," like critical depictions of slavery,
00:19:42is not welcomed, but Rashid Johnson, chronicler
00:19:45of American anxiety, somehow maintains
00:19:48composure. Progress is an
00:19:52unstoppable force. Therefore,
00:19:55even when we see something that, it seems to us,
00:19:58is inconsistent with progress, we must
00:20:02admit that in some sense it also reflects
00:20:05it. degree, it is an
00:20:08integral part of how we move
00:20:12forward. Progress cannot
00:20:15be stopped.
00:20:23Photographer Inuutek Storch captures scenes of daily life in his
00:20:27native Greenland.
00:20:29Photographs taken at the edge of the world. An intimate
00:20:33look at the everyday lives of people living surrounded by friends and family.
00:20:38Unobtrusive moments that shape personality and
00:20:41constitute life against dramatic
00:20:43landscapes.
00:20:51Inuutek Storch shows us his country through the eyes
00:20:54of a Greenlander. This is an unusual point of view, rarely
00:20:58found in history textbooks. In school, the photographer
00:21:01studied ancient Greek myths and Danish, but heard nothing
00:21:05about his Inuit ancestors. "The world outside is probably much
00:21:08more amazing," thought young Storch. When I
00:21:12was younger, I dreamed of traveling all over the world, seeing how people
00:21:16live in other regions. But when I set off.
00:21:53people
00:21:53drink,
00:21:58trust each
00:21:59other,
00:22:03feel
00:22:03closeness.
00:22:07The most important thing for us is to understand our
00:22:11own culture and life, and to realize
00:22:14how valuable this is to us. We
00:22:18live in a very special
00:22:20place, if we compare it to how life is structured
00:22:23in other parts
00:22:25of the earth.
00:22:28Greenland is the largest island in the world with a population of only
00:22:3257,000 people, but it has never known
00:22:35peace. First came missionaries, then merchants
00:22:39and soldiers. For a long time, Greenland was a Danish
00:22:43colony. Since 1979,
00:22:45it became an autonomous territory of the Danish kingdom. Alcoholism
00:22:49flourished here. The and high suicide rates
00:22:53colonial past has many dark pages, from forced
00:22:56sterilization of women and eviction of Inuit to make way
00:23:00for American military bases, to the removal of children
00:23:03from local families to turn them into
00:23:06Danes.
00:23:10I think that it's about
00:23:13the historical trauma
00:23:14of society.
00:23:18We were a colony.
00:23:26and the colonizers did inhumane things. The saddest thing is that traditions and beliefs
00:23:29gradually
00:23:31disappeared.
00:23:34But now they are starting to
00:23:37return.
00:23:41Previously, Inuit tattoos were completely
00:23:45banned. Now Greenland is once again
00:23:48in the sights of foreign
00:23:51powers, but Storch does not want to focus
00:23:55on fear, powerlessness, or anger. He
00:23:58is cautious.
00:24:00We just hope for a good life in
00:24:03the future, because people want stability and
00:24:07comfort. I think not only in Greenland do we
00:24:11feel this way, I believe that this is a common
00:24:14hope, to live well with the whole
00:24:17family.
00:24:20In his short film Anachronism, a finger on
00:24:24the map threatens the very essence of home.
00:24:47Storch defends his personal point of view. At the national
00:24:51museum, he found photographs by an unknown Greenlandic
00:24:54photographer, photographs that contain almost no indigenous
00:24:57people.
00:25:01They depict the colonizers and their
00:25:04lives.
00:25:08That's why Inuutek Storch collects private films and
00:25:12photographs from relatives and friends. We
00:25:15are here with our history, identity, and
00:25:18language.
00:25:23We are very lucky that we managed to preserve our
00:25:26language, the word "sila" means
00:25:30nature, the outer world, and at the same time
00:25:33consciousness.
00:25:36Many Greenlandic words have double or even
00:25:39triple meanings, for example, when they say "kivsila"
00:25:43it can mean that a person is wise,
00:25:47but also that there is something external in them.
00:26:02a friend during long periods of darkness, cold, and power
00:26:06outages, against the backdrop of Western influence and
00:26:09that special spirituality that is rarely found anywhere
00:26:12else.
00:26:15And that's all, join us again next week,
00:26:19come for a new dose of art and culture.
00:26:34without prohibitions and restrictions, the real
00:26:37time on Telegram, all in one place, on a convenient platform,
00:26:40free from censorship, Telegram channel "Present
00:26:43Time", subscribe and share with
00:26:46your friends.
00:26:50there can be no school in the subway, this is generally
00:26:53a nonsense.
00:26:57yes, it just got
00:27:00into the crosshairs.
00:27:05And what does that man not understand, that by throwing rockets here,
00:27:09people are dying here? I say, I don't know you, I was very
00:27:13afraid when it flew in and into the basement.
00:27:28of course, it feels like we're hiding Jews here,
00:27:31that's how it is.
00:27:36You've been living in war for five years, how do you
00:27:39show a destroyed city? The
00:27:41city is
00:27:45empty, everything that used to be familiar
00:27:49and noisy for you also becomes
00:27:51empty.
00:28:00This is a live broadcast, the Present Time TV channel. Hello, we asked
00:28:04our viewers to write why they watch
00:28:06us.
00:28:11You tell the truth, that's the main thing. I'll say more, you
00:28:14have become the only media outlet I
00:28:16trust.
00:28:20You have become for me an island of sanity, honesty,
00:28:23discernment, justice,
00:28:25mercy. Thank you for the objective
00:28:29information.
00:29:32occupying power or into the territory of any other
00:29:35state, regardless of whether they are occupied or not.
00:29:39The occupying power shall not deport or
00:29:42transfer parts of its own civilian population
00:29:46into the territory it occupies.